Logan Floats Australia is an Australian owned and operated company. The Father/Son team at Logan Floats have worked in the motor industry for a combined 47 years and both have grown up being involved in Australia's rich equine community. Logan Floats was developed after finding that previous floats did not offer everything they required for themselves and their horses. After extensively researching floats both within Australia and overseas, Logan Floats Australia was born.
"We have been searching for the finest quality and best value floats, and believe with our knowledge and the experience of Logan Coach in America, we are able to offer you the finest quality float in Australia. We look forward to sharing our products with you and assisting you with any questions you may have about the range." James Deacon - Director Logan Floats.
Looking for a brochure on any of the Logan Floats range? Feel free to email and request an information pack on your desired float. Click on the contact us button to request a brochure or fill in your contact details we shall get it out to you.
Useful Tips from Logan Floats Australia.
Many of us arent always up to date with the do’s and don’ts of purchasing a pre-owned float. With so many makes on models on the market these days it is hard to pick the correct float. With Chinese floats tempting us with ‘value’ for money and older floats which have been fully restored it is sometimes the incorrect float which you tow away.... The items below are a simple checklist to consider when viewing a pre-owned float.
Checking tyre wear, uneaven wear may as simple as the previous owner driving on a low tyre or, it could be as serious as a bent axle or loose suspension.
Checking wheel bearings, very, very important to do this more than once a year on any float. If inspecting a float a good firm twist of the wheel can encourage excessive movement to make a knock and be detected.
Any leakages in the float such as fibre glass cracks, rotted timber or bent door frames can allow water in to do its worst.. Signs of water stains or rust marks is a good indication the float has got a leak or has had one in the past which may have been fixed.
Door seals (these arent huge safety issues but will prevent rotting/rusting).
Check wiring and seals around trailer plugs and light fittings, this can eliminate moisture build up in lights and lenses which will then cause lights to fail and possibly blow fuses leaving you with no lights.
Make sure tailgates have good enough rubber or some timber slats to prevent horses slipping with wet shoes.
Sufficient clearance lights. The old Halogen style bulbs have been used for years and have done a great job. The latest lighting product on the scene are L.E.D. Lights (light Emitting Diode) they are 10 times as bright, don’t require replacing and light your float up like a Christmas tree at night time. When towing in a dark stormy night on a freeway it makes visibility so much poorer so ‘re-lighting’ your float with L.E.D. Lights is highly recommended from a safety point of view if the float you are looking at doesn’t currently have them.
Reflective tape. Rolls of reflective tape are another great idea for visibility. Next time your out on the road at night and you pull over turn your lights off and walk behind your float. You will notice that when a cars lights hit it you don’t pick up anything, you may get a small reflection from your tail lamps (which should be switched off), but you cant make out if it is a small box trailer or a big truck. Go and buy a roll of reflective tape from Bunnings, supercheap auto, autobarn and stick it around the outer frame of your float. During the day it is very subtle (make sure you get the white and silver one not the bring orange one) how ever at night.. Your float will look like a moving road sign!. Very safe and effective way of protecting you and your horses on the freeway.
Flooring, many older floats have already had new floors fitted, this does not mean they havent rotted through again though. When the float is listed as having ‘new floor fitted’ peel back the rubber to investigate. It is not as if the sellers are being untruthful, it is just that leaks can spring up without the owners knowledge and quickly rott a new floor.
Registration... A quick online check can inform you if the float you are looking at is underfinance or currently un registered. Some owners do neglect to tell you this. Neither of which is a huge concern if it is an honest sale. Your local RTA can inform you of the procedure to take on both.
Rust on Steel floats is going to be evident in some shape or form. Surface rust and corosion is going to be on bascially every float on the road (unless it is made from fibreglass or Aluminium). Floats which have been shedded will have less and floats have not will have more. This is pretty easy to pick and cant be covered up in a ‘cheap fix’ by a sticker or new paint. If serious rust has made its way into the frame or chassis of a float it will be easy to pick. Always check for brand new shuny paint on frames and Chassis (as this may have been an attempt to cover up a quick rust job). If done corrently then this is not a problem however none of us want to deal with rust 6 months after purchasing a float..
You can always check online on any of these specific points if you are unsure of what to look for, there have been enough horror stories on all the mad points to show imgaes of rotted floors, rusted frames and shoddy wiring. Try not to let pretty alloy wheels and shiny paint overule a solid floor and solid frame.. Remember BUYER BEWARE!!!
Floating Advice from Logan Floats
Floating..... What an ease it has become, with a new generations of floats, a range of vehicles well equipped to take you and your equine companion down the road, it has become a huge decision as to what is the correct towing combination. Without getting to technical here are a few pointers on what questions to ask and what research to do when buying your new car/float. The first questions many of us ask are, ‘how much will it tow?’ and ‘How much does it weigh?’. These two questions would be referring to what is the towing limit on a vehicle and what is the TARE weight (the weight of the float) with no horses in it. These are two areas of concern as some floats either don’t have the TARE weight on the drawbar or manufacturers fabricate some of these numbers to lower the weight to make it more attractive to perspective buyers. Some other areas we must ay attention to are.. The ball weight of your vehicle, this is the amount of downward pressure your vehicle can handle from your float. This is usually listed on a small silver plate on the tow bar itself of in your owners manual of the vehicle. The other important question about your float is, ‘what is the GVM (gross Vehicle Mass) this figure is the amount of weight your float and its maximum carrying capacity. So if your GVM is 2 tonne and your float weights 1.7 tonne you are only legally aloud to carry 300kgs of gear and horse. Any good salesperson will give you the correct advise in these 4 areas, however be careful of people wanting your money over your safety. All of this info can be found online so you can narrow down what float and what car will fit into your towing set up.
One of the more appealing vehicles in today's market are one of the ‘mew generation’ Diesel utes, plenty of power, huge towing capacities plus shiny new wheels, A/C and Bluetooth kits!! In theory these utes are brilliant, great value for money very reliable and heaps of useable power. A few things to read into when seriously looking for a new tow car are... These utes are a great option but depending on how heavy your float fully loaded is will reflect just how safe this option will be. The towing capacity on some of these utes is 3 tonne, this opens the door to many of us who have a heavy float. Remember that these utes only way a little over 1tonne, the suspension and brakes are not the best they can be, most of them still choosing to use rear drum brakes instead of disc brakes. With the old leaf spring suspension in the rear it is not long until your ute will be sitting down in the back chasing possums with your headlights pointing up into the trees. If this is happening to you a set of ‘Polyair air springs’ should be fitted to the rear of the vehicle. It is a manual version of Air suspension which you pump up with a tyre gauge, these will set you back around the $500 mark fully installed in your car. The rear drum brakes.. There aren't allot of options here in upgrading the drums, you can fit a set of performance ‘drilled and slotted’ front disc rotors to the front of the vehicle. With over 60% of your braking coming from the front discs would be wise to fit some good quality discs and Bendix pads to your car to prevent an accident. As I previously mentioned if you are pulling your 3 tonne float with your 1.3 tonne ute... Your float can dictate the state of play very quickly. In addition to all of this would be a good electric brake controller, also be aware that on your controller we have the ability to brake the horse float on its own. I am sure many people are aware of this, but for those of you who aren't if you are coming down a steep hill with a heavy float on there is usually a slide or a button on your controller which activates the trailer brakes only. This is a good effective way of washing off speed in a emergency, it also lets you keep a heavy float under control instead of being on and off the brakes of your car.
If you want to get in contact with James please email; firstname.lastname@example.org